Monday, August 17th - Atacama Desert

What a phenomenal morning!  We went to visit the Valle de la Luna!  The reason it is called this is because of the tremendous salt deposits which leave it looking like the surface of the moon!  The mountain and rock formations are just unbelievable!  Our guide, Ricardo, was explaining to us that the striations and shapes are all a result of the shifting of the mountains as they rose up out of the earth.  It was geologically fascinating to listen to him...I just wish I understood more.  (I guess I'll have to read up on that!)

Ricardo actually grew up in this area in an oasis called Coyo.  Coyo has been in existence for about 3000 years!!!!  His family has been the main family in the oasis throughout the years.  He was explaining that different families emerged from the Atacameans and would start their own villages in surrounding oases!  They are all considered Atacameans...but have differentiated themselves from the ancient civilizations.  

We visited a salt mine.  Both salt and gypsum were extracted from the area.  Ricardo's grandfather used to run the salt mine that we visited.  He said that there was another larger mine also...but that had been run by a different family.  The mine was primitive by our standards...but certainly did the trick!  Originally, it was simply used for the people of San Pedro and surrounding oases...but then a copper mining company came into the area and began purchasing large quantities of salt to clean the copper.  That was extremely beneficial financially for a while...but the the copper company figured out a cheaper way to clean the copper...and then mines ended up shutting down in the 1950's.  

While I was walking with Ricardo to the top of the sand dune...which by the way was the most incredibly pristine dune I have ever seen!!!!...we started talking about the Atacamean culture.  I was asking him if the people had been able to hold onto their customs and traditions despite colonization by the Spaniards.  Different from the Rapa Nui...the Atacameans have retained many aspects of their culture!  Although they say that they have a syncretic blend of their beliefs and catholicism...in reality their primary beliefs remain true to their original culture!  They still first and foremost put their faith and spirituality in Mother Earth!  They offer supplication to her at various points in time...and look to the main volcano in the area as their protector...physically and spiritually!  He was saying that the main threat to the culture now are the Bolivians who come across the border and the people from Santiago that come here and bring their bad habits with them.  As he describes San Pedro...he calls it a city without delinquency...but the newcomers are bringing their vices with them and drugs and stealing are beginning to invade their peace and serenity.  The local people are not happy with the growth in population..or the invasion of foreign elements.  It was really interesting to speak with him. He seemed to be somewhat optimistic though that the people will choose to remain true to their culture and fight globalization! :)  They believe that man was put here to serve Mother Earth...not that Earth was created for man.  (Sounds a bit like Ishmael huh?)

Every time I enter the desert thoughts of "The Alchemist" come to my mind!  It as if I feel like I am living the essence of the story.  The vast expanse of desert, the mountain ranges, the levanter (wind), and the incredible beauty that to me exemplifies the "soul of the universe." (If you have not read the book...I highly recommend it!  I have plenty of copies at school! )  I am awed to be able to be in the comfort and care of Mother Earth...and to be able to experience her grandeur!

This natural formation is called 'las tres Marias."  The priest that found this thought the formation on the right looked like "Mary" praying to heaven.  And...jokingly...the figure on the right, Ricardo said, was a T-rex! :)

looking down into the salt mine

The encampment at the Salt Mine.  The miners would come up and live on the mountain.  They would work from 6 a.m. - 6 p.m.!!!  Very rarely would they have time to visit their families!  What a tough life!

View of the top of the sand dune!  So pristine!  Ricardo explained that the indigenous people used to walk across the sand dune...but now it is protected by the national parks office.  

Scenic views!!!

Any white that you see is salt!!!

The mountain in the background is the "female" volcano that the locals pray to.  It is a different color due to the way it emerged from the land.  Originally, this area was under the ocean...which can be proved by the amount of gypsum in the area.

Magnificent rock formations!

This afternoon I'm headed out on a 12 km hike through the area.